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06 December 2011

Possibly My Favorite Skirt Pattern: McCalls 3511, 1973

Thank you all for your comments on my last post, "Jerks and Skirts"! You all are amazing, amazing. I took all of your comments to heart. I've certainly internalized what's been happening around me, and you all were able to give me some important perspective.

So you don't think it's all gloom-and-doom and pants-wearing around these parts, I have been thinking a lot about skirts. I was convinced that my skirt-wearing could finally come front-and-center with the season change. I could layer up with tights and leggings (and feel comfortable on my daily commute, baby steps!) and I got my first pair of riding boots that'll pair beautifully with skirts once the rain begins.

In particular, since examining my wardrobe and considering my body type, I've been thinking about what types of skirts I'd be most likely to wear regularly. I've come to these conclusions:

Fabric/color: With wovens, dark denim is my neutral. Dark gray for more formal situations. With knits, it's black and gray.
Waist: My waist is too dang high for me not to feel overwhelmed in high-waist or natural waist skirts. It's a high-hip skirt for me. This also means I need tops that hit there, untucked.
Length: Mid-knee for formal, just above the knee for day-to-night, 3-4 inches above the knee for casual.
Fit/Silhouette: Fitted through the hip, slight A-line.

Sometimes I think it's good to give ourselves parameters, what to you think? It allows me to focus and increases my chances of success. So one Sunday morning in early November, I was lying in bed, thinking about going to the thrift store to find a denim skirt with the above characteristics, but instead I got up and pulled out this 1973 pattern instead and cut up some leftover denim from my Rooibos


Carefree Pattern? You bet it is. Four pattern pieces, a zipper and a piece of ribbon. It whipped up so fast I wore it to lunch that day.

And to work that week.

I originally sewed it as instructed but the high waist was bothering me so I let out the front and back darts and it now falls at high-hip. I wore it to the marina on the weekend.

And again to work yesterday!

And several other times. Seriously, my Sunday Morning Skirt has received more consistent love in the last month than any skirt in the history of my wardrobe. And I think it's because I thought hard about what works for me.

Now that I have a foundation skirt I love, I can expand. As a six-gore skirt, think of the options. I could add patch pockets or pockets a la Rooibos on the front side panels. A waistband or a waistband with pockets a la Clover. I've got an equally stiff red corduroy I'd love to try it with and a drapey black crepe that would totally change the shape. I could add godets! I could make it a mini! Oh, bless you, McCalls 3511.

One lesson I've learned in hindsight is that sewing can be a really frustrating way to discover flattering silhouettes (so says all my unworn FOs). I've seen so many items on others that I just love love but on me just look blah (you make it look so easy, curvy ladies!). I've got a meh skirt in the blog queue to prove it.

I'm beginning to think it's much easier to find a basic silhouette that suits you and build from there, as I did with my favorite jeans and hopefully with my Sunday Morning Skirt.

What do you think? How do you go about finding silhouettes that work for you?

14 comments:

  1. I think you're absolutely right---it's much easier to try out different silhouettes and styles in RTW, and then apply the things you know you'll like to your sewing.

    That being said, for me there's a lot of things that I haven't much liked in RTW (like tailored blouses) more because of fit issues than style issues. For things like this, I hardly know if the style works for me because it's impossible to find a RTW example that comes close to fitting. In those cases, I'm kinda stuck with sewing.

    Incidentally, while I share your distaste for natural-waist waistbands, I've noticed that if I want to wear an un-tucked shirt that ends at at my hips, it's often better to wear it over a higher-waisted skirt, otherwise I'm going to end up with gaps everytime I raise my arms or bend over. Which was great when I was 18 and lived to show off my tummy, but I'm a bit less into it now.

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  2. What a fantastic skirt! I am pear shaped, so I need either a full skirt or a high-waisted pencil one to balance out my bottom silhouette. Cinching in the waists really help me, too.

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  3. Oh, I love it! And how fast you whipped that up!! 70's styles rock, but I'm with you and high waist/ natural waist make me feel a little uncomfortable. I think it looks fabulous on you, wherever the waist.

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  4. I'm still learning what works for me. I've made several skirts, most of which hit at my natural waist. The skirt that gets the most wear though looks an awful lot like the one you made for yourself - only it's a simple A-line with a single piece front and a two piece back. You're really inspiring me to start thinking about what truly flatters me.

    On a totally unrelated note, are you going to the BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook Launch Party on Monday? I'm going to do my best to go, and it would be fun to meet other sewing bloggers.

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  5. This skirt is perfect for you! And I love the gores - such a nice detail, and easy to customize. A red corduroy version sounds delicious. I am longing for some more red in my wardrobe too, but it´s hard to find good solid reds for winter use where I live.

    I like my skirts to be natural or high waisted, but for a more relaxed look, I have a few that rests on the hip as well.

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  6. Beautiful skirt and it looks great on you! That one's a winner :)

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  7. Ali you've got it! It's great when it all falls into place isn't it? I can't wait to see it in red corduroy also! I think I kind of know skirt wise what works for me, but it doesn't stop me from getting tempted by something inappropriate when I see someone else looking lovely! Thankfully I put a bit more thought into it these days and keep foolish temptation in my head!

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  8. :D It's a wonderful skirt, Ali, and it fits you beautifully! I really like it paired with the bordeaux tights - fun! :) Also, yay for the boots!

    I also find it difficult to predict if a style will look good on me or not. For now, I try to find similar styles in stores to try on if I'm not sure. I find it's also fun to try on things I think probably won't flatter me on purpose. Sometimes I'm surprised and they work even though I thought they didn't! :)

    I think a red corduroy version would be awesome! I've been on the lookout for decent red corduroy (huh, had to try three spellings for that before getting it right...) for ages!

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  9. I really enjoyed seeing that one skirt worn three different ways. I tend to find an "outfit" that works and stick with it until I get bored and then... what? So much better to switch it around like you!
    I have the opposite problem to you: low waists just drop off my hips and I leave my skirt behind when I stand up. I am loving 70's patterns at the moment because they come up higher. I make my main mistakes with RTW and have to take skirts in with pleats or darts to bring them up higher. It's usually a "must have" print fabric that is my undoing.

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  10. Thrift shopping has actually been a good way for me to discover what works on me--I don't mind taking a chance on something that's only going to set me back about $5 or so, and since it's second-hand, it's also a very eco/human-friendly way to go about it. (I was really surprised to find out this way that skinny jeans don't look horrible on me like I thought they would....as long as I wear a long enough top that my hips are covered!)

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  11. @Tanit-Isis: You're totally right, there's some things in RTW that are hard to get a handle on since RTW is made for certain proportions. Your JJ blouses come to mind -- so well-fitted so unlike anything I've managed to try in RTW. And yeah, I do wear my tops a couple inches lower than my high hip -- it's just a whole lotta hip, goodness, how to differentiate? Higher high hip? :0

    @Amy -- There's a party?? I'm totally drooling over the book too. Holy cannoli, I'll definitely try and make it. It'd be great to meet you!

    @Sarah, @Solvi, @ScruffyBadger -- I love skirts on you! Other sewing bloggers are such sewing inspirations -- really know how to dress for their individual bodies and styles. I'm getting there!

    @Roo -- You look fabulous in high waists. I've also found the waist-issue is deeply personal don't you think? No matter how many times I read those advice columns about where and how I should wear something it only really makes a difference if I feel comfortable and confident that way.

    @Becky & @Alessa -- Totally. Trying on things in the store and/or thrifting can be a great way to find new silhouettes without a big upfront investment. I'm sure I've thrifted my way into new styles! :)


    I'm really longing for those comment reply features you have in Wordpress -- maybe I'll figure out a fix soon.

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  12. What a great post. I like how you analyse shapes and fit Ali. The skirt looks very good and so versatile. I agree you have lots of potential there. Red cord sounds very appealing to me. I also struggle with high waists though I like seeing them on others, they just don't feel comfortable on me.
    I have been having some comment problems again. Hopefully its working again now. x

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  13. I love projects that whip up so quickly, especially when they become such an instant favorite! Bravo, you look great!

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  14. How about a mini skirt? low waist, slight A-line? You look like you have got a good pair of pins on you and with knee boots/tights...va va voom
    http://huggiedoeshomespun.wordpress.com/2011/10/22/itsy-witsy-woolly-skirt/

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